HeatherH wrote:
The idea is to get him on raw food... I have an entire bag of kibble left (Proformatrim for adults) for over and I thought I'd wean him off the kibble.
There is no need to "wean" a dog from kibble to a raw diet. Like Lisa said, RAW and kibble are digested differently which is why there needs to be an extended time in between feeding the two. Raw will go through the system in about 4-5 hours whereas kibble takes 8-9 hours.
In Pat Lazarus book, "Keep Your Dog Healthy the Natural Way," under the topic of food combining he states:
"How you combine food groups can be crucial to your dog's health. Why? The digestive organs secret enzymes to break down food so it can be properly used by the body. When carbohydrates and proteins are eaten at the same time, the protein enzymes go to work first, and the digestion of carbohydrates must wait. While the carbohydrates are waiting around to be digested, they ferment and release toxins in the body.
Proper food combining might more aptly be called not combining foods: Give only meat (or other heavy proteins such as eggs or milk) at one meal; give carbohydrates (fruit & grains) for the other meal. Vegetables, though may be given with either grains or heavy proteins."
HeatherH wrote:I'm just trying to wrap my head around the idea of uncooked food. I was always told that they would get worms or make them sick.
This is a myth.
HeatherH wrote: So you’re saying whole chicken no cooking and no bone removal? Then the week after that fish (salmon). This will be enough to keep him healthy?
Ummm...no. I don't think anyone said that. In fact, it is advised to feed multiple proteins. And make sure that whatever meat you are feeding him is minimally processed. Watch the sodium content...nothing over 100 mg of sodium per serving.
There are 2 schools of thought on RAW, but the formula for feeding has 2 basic premises that are accepted by both schools of thought (I'll address the 2 groups later):
Food: 80% muscle meat, 10% bone, 10% organ.
Portion size: 2-3% of ideal adult body weight.
So let's unpack these 2 basics:
#1. Percentages: as far as the percentages go (80,10,10), raw feeders have a mantra: "balance over time." This means that not every meal has to consist of 80,10,10. As long as your dogs are getting the correct percentage balanced out over the course of a week or so, you're fine. If you try to make sure every meal has the exact ratio, you will drive yourself crazy...unless, of course, you have the time...which I do not.
#2. Portion size: you want to start off with 2-3% of ideal adult weight. Keep in mind that this can be more or less depending on activity level, age, medical factors, etc. This is just a starting point and can be adjusted if weight gain or weight loss is needed (due to exercise levels, number of treats given, etc, etc).
I feed all 3 of my dogs 2.0% 2x per day (because they all get snacks/treats/bones).
Tyson weighs 50 lbs and gets 2 meals, each being 8 oz.
Baby Ruth (mini-schnauzer) is 13 lbs and gets 2 oz, 2x per day.
Snickers (min-pin) is 6 lbs and gets 1 oz, 2x per day.
So...keeping all of that in mind, here is how I make it easy:
When I purchase their food, I make sure that I will have time either that day or the day after to spend some time cutting, weighing, and bagging. *side note...this is much easier with larger dogs rather than smaller because it is easier to eyeball 8+ oz at a time rather than 1 & 2 oz at a time. In fact, many raw feeders with larger dogs don't weigh at all. Anyway, I portion all the meals out into ziploc baggies and put them in the freezer. I will take 2-3 days worth of food out of the freezer at a time and stick it in the fridge so it can thaw. At meal-time you just unzip and dump. I usually let the meat sit out (either in their bowls or in the baggies) for a couple hours to let it get to room temp before I give it to them.
There are suppliers who sell pre-made raw. They get all the ratios, grind it up, and freeze it and then all you have to do is slap the right amount in your dog's bowl. While this is convenient, it really isn't cost-effective for larger dogs. That being said, I do buy pre-made from a specific supplier to have on hand for those "just in case" times.
There are 2 schools of thought on raw:
1. Prey style and prey style only. This means no veggies or fruits. EVER. And never feed ground meals. They are pretty strict and are very passionate about prey-model.
2. Your basic raw group. This group believes that raw is the way to go, but everyone and every dog is different so there's not a lot of judgement (unless, of course you feed some dreadful kibble like 'Ol Roy.

). Some feed raw only, some are partial to prey-model, some make a veggie glop, some feed a mixture of high quality kibble & raw....
To each their own...you have to do what you feel is best for your dog.
I am in the second group (obviously, since I keep pre-made raw on hand

).
The key to raw is this: know thy dog, and don't over-think it.
I hope this helps.
EDIT: This is a really good book for beginners: RAW Dog food, Make it Easy For You and Your Dog By Carina Beth MacDonald.
http://www.amazon.com/Raw-Dog-Food-Make ... 1929242093
Dr. Karen Becker also has a RAW feeding book:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/098253 ... rd_i=typ01